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Millions of years ago, the mountain ranges
within Jasper were built by a process
of sedimentation, compression and uplift:
the brownish Main Ranges, which straddle
the continental divide, were formed about
120 million years ago, largely of coarse
sandstone, slate, limestone, shale and
quartz. To the east, the grey Front Range,
about 500 metres lower, rose up around
40 million years later. In spite of the
glaciation and erosion over the last 2
million years - the Little Ice Age
ended about 100 years ago - many of
the mountains in the Main Range still
average a spectacular 3350 metres with
the highest, Mount Robson towering 3954
metres. During the last great ice age,
12 000 years ago, a river of ice filled
the Athabasca Valley creating cirques,
moraines and couloirs, then leaving behind
eskers, kettles, lakes and winding rivers
as it melted and moved up the valley.
Post-glacial erosion accounts for deltas
and canyons, Maligne Canyon being the
most spectacular example of the cutting
power of moving water. The creation of
caves and the breakdown of rocks are usually
the consequence of freezing; rockslides,
avalanches, mudslides, dunes and hoodoos
are the effects of gravity and wind. Rain,
snow, wind and gravity working for hundreds
of thousands of years have left ragged
mountain peaks and broad V-shaped river
valleys with wooded lower slopes and alpine
tundra above the tree line. Glacial ice
remains, for now, along the continental
divide. The melt water from Mount Snowdome
flows into three oceans and the 6.5 kilometre
long Athabasca Glacier continues to melt
and flow downward. Massive ice fields
cover over 5% of the park, with 15 -
20 glaciers, as much as 300 metres thick,
visible from the Icefield Parkway that
runs from Lake Louise to Jasper.

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Jaspers three ecological
zones are home to 1300 species of plants:
the dry forested montane in the river
valleys that makes up 10% of the park,
the sub-alpine forests and the rocky alpine
tundra. The grassy open slopes and mixed
wood forests of the montane zone make
ideal grazing. Trembling aspen and Douglas
fir grow primarily in the river bottoms
where climate is less severe. Lodgepole
pine benefit from the park's burning
program that increases productivity by
releasing seeds for germination and produces
new growth for grazing animals. The montane
is also home to Brown-eyed Susans and
arnica, paintbrush, crocus, yellow lady's
slipper, wild rose and wild strawberry.
About half of Jasper is sub-alpine forest
characterized by larch, sharp-pointed
Engelmann spruce and alpine fir, which
can spread down valleys like a black tide.
Multi-coloured columbine and the orange
western wood lily cling to the mountain
slopes. Above the treeline, the back country
alpine tundra display moss campion with
small pink flowers growing in clusters,
wolf lichen, old man's beard and dog-ear
lichens that may have been growing there
for a hundred years.
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